Masters of High Fashion
Even before the official birth of the haute couture in 19th century Paris; high fashion in France could be traced all the way back to the 17th century, during the reign of the Sun King, Louis XIV. The Englishman Charles Worth is however widely considered to have officially given birth to haute couture, shortly after moving to Paris in the closing years of the 19th century.
As the 19th century turned into the 20th, Callott Soeurs opened her atelier at the age of 24 with her four sisters. Their mother was a lace maker while the eldest sister Marie was distinguished in dressmaking. Their initial fame originated with the antique laces and ribbons they used to enhance blouses and lingerie. This led to their remarkable expansion into the other facets of haute couture. By 1916, Callot Soeurs became famous in New York’s “high society” and was featured in various prestigious galleries around the world. She was said to have been "foremost among the powers that influence a woman's life.”
In the 1920s, Madeleine Vionnet achieved legendary success as a designer, yet she expressed intense dislike for the world of fashion. Listen to this for example: "Insofar as one can talk of a Vionnet school, it comes mostly from my having been an enemy of fashion. There is something superficial and volatile about the seasonal and elusive whims of fashion which offends my sense of beauty.”
The most legendary icon of haute couture is Coco Chanel who had, to say the least a somewhat different point of view. She is said to have liberated the constraints of the corseted silhouette shortly after World War 1. She is the only fashion designer listed on Time Magazine’s list of the top 100 most influential people of the 20th century. Creating meaningfully distinctive couture was of upmost importance to her. Listen to these provocative words: “In order to be irreplaceable one must always be different.”
Christain Dior was gifted with an amazing talent in art and fashion. As a teenager he sold his fashion sketches outside his house for about 10 cents. In 1928 he left school and was financed by his father to start a small art gallery where he sold work by the likes of Pablo Picasso. He built a phenomenal career and his reputation, as one of the world’s all - time greats, lives on in his esteemed brand.
Yves Saint Laurent worked for Dior and was hugely inspired if not intimated by him. In the 60s he created his own studio. He approached fashion with the notion of wanting women to look comfortable yet elegant at the same time. That might not sound particularly revolutionary, but it heralded the idea of “elegant simplicity” a core principle for many. Decades later Saint Laurent became the first fashion designer to be honored by the Metropolitan Museum with a solo exhibition.
Giovanni Versace began his apprenticeship at his mother’s sewing business before moving to Paris at 26 to work in fashion design. In 1978 he opened his boutique in Milan and quickly became a sensation for the vivid colors, bold prints and sexy styles he used. He believed that creativity is born out of unusual combinations like “luxurious classicism with overt sexuality.” Brazenly defying fashion conventions, he said: “I don’t believe in good taste”. Referencing his rivalry with Armani it was said that Giorgio dressed the wife while Giovanni dressed the mistress.
So many masters. So little time.
In conclusion let’s just say that our intent at Gramercy Atelier is to liberate women from the runway and to bring to life the couture concept that lives inside her heart.
